Brake pads and rotors typically show clear warning signs as they wear thin or overheat. Our Professional Parts People recommend checking your front brakes if you notice:
- Squealing or Squeaking: A high-pitched metallic scraping sound while braking usually means the wear indicators on your brake pads are touching the rotor face.
- Front-End Shudder or Pulsing: If the steering wheel or brake pedal shakes when you slow down, your rotors may have developed hot spots or worn to an uneven thickness.
- Grinding Noise: A harsh, metal-on-metal grinding sound indicates your brake pad friction material is completely gone, and the bare backing plate is damaging the rotor.
- Soft or Spongy Brake Pedal: If the brake pedal travels further down than usual or feels squishy, your brake pads may be extremely thin. This is a symptom more commonly associated with a failing master cylinder or brake fluid leak, so be sure to complete a full inspection of your brake system.
Brake Pads
Brake Rotors
Brake Cleaner
Brake Grease
Brake Fluid
Ratchet & Socket Set
Breaker Bar
Caliper Compressor Tool
Brake Bleeder Tool
Bleeder Wrench
Torque Wrench
Pry Bar
Caliper Hanger
Flathead Screwdriver
Wire Brush
Floor Jack
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Shop Towels
Safety Glasses
Gloves
Step 1: Loosen the Lug Nuts
Step 2: Secure the Truck & Remove the Wheel
Step 3: Remove the Caliper Mounting Bolts
Step 4: Detach & Hang the Caliper
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Pro Tip: Never let the brake caliper hang freely by the brake hose, as this could stretch or crack the inner lining and cause fluid leaks. |
Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads
Step 6: Remove the Caliper Bracket
Step 7: Clean & Inspect the Caliper Bracket
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Pro Tip: Avoid using a wire brush on the caliper bracket. This can lead to further corrosion. |
Step 8: Grease & Install New Brake Hardware
Step 9: Reinstall the Caliper Slide Pins
Step 10: Remove the Old Rotor
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Pro Tip: Only use a hammer if you'll be replacing the rotor, since hammering can cause damage. |
Step 11: Install the New Rotor
If you’re using standard replacement rotors, be sure to thoroughly clean both friction surfaces with brake cleaner and a clean shop towel to remove any oil. Note: We installed BrakeBest Select Pro rotors, which feature a protective coating and don’t require cleaning.
Slide the new rotor onto the wheel studs until it sits flush against the hub face, and thread one lug nut onto a stud by hand to hold it securely in place as you continue to work.
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Pro Tip: Brake cleaner will strip away paint, so be careful when spraying it. |
Step 12: Reinstall & Torque the Caliper Bracket
Step 13: Clean & Compress the Caliper Pistons
Use brake cleaner on a shop towel or rag to clean the exposed portion of the caliper pistons.
Note: If a rubber boot is cracked or if brake fluid is leaking, the caliper needs to be replaced.
Attach your bleeder tool and wrench to the caliper bleeder valve, and open the valve by turning it counter-clockwise. Use a caliper compressor tool to compress the brake caliper pistons until they sit completely flush with the housing. Tighten the bleeder valve securely and detach the bleeder tool.
Step 14: Install New Brake Pads & Mount the Caliper
Install your new brake pads into the bracket channels and attach the pad retaining clip. Once the pads are secure, unhook the caliper from its hanger, move it into place over the new pads, and thread the caliper mounting bolts by hand, starting with the top one.
Use your ratchet and a 13mm socket to tighten the caliper bolts, then use your torque wrench to finish tightening them to 55 foot-pounds.
Step 15: Reinstall the Wheel
Step 16: Repeat on the Other Side
Brake pads and rotors should always be changed in pairs, so repeat steps 1 through 16 on the other side of the truck. Once you’ve finished both sides, use your floor jack to lift the front end slightly, slide out your jack stands, and lower the truck completely back to the ground. Then, remove the rear wheel chocks.
Using your 21mm socket and a torque wrench, tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to 150 foot-pounds. If you removed hubcaps at the beginning of the job, snap them back into place.
Step 17: Pump the Brakes and Check Fluid
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Pro Tip: If your brake pedal still feels spongy after pumping, it’s likely that you have air trapped in one or both of your front brake lines. You will need to bleed the brakes to remove the air before you drive your vehicle. |
If you aren't comfortable replacing the front brake pads and rotors on your Ford F-150, stop by your local O’Reilly Auto Parts. We can recommend a professional shop or a Certified Auto Repair Service Center in your area to get the job done right.
To break in your new brakes, you will need to bed the brake pads to the rotor faces. Find a safe road with minimal traffic and perform the following test drive procedure:
- Perform 30 Slowdowns: Accelerate your truck up to 30 mph, then use moderate, steady brake pressure to slow the vehicle down.
- Allow for Cooling Time: Drive for roughly 30 seconds between each slowdown to give the new brake components adequate time to cool down.
- Repeat 30 Times: Repeat this process and cooling cycle 30 times consecutively.
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Pro Tip: Avoid making any aggressive or sudden stops during the break-in process. |
It’s completely normal for your brakes to emit a distinct smell after you break them in. However, if it persists past 500 miles, or if you notice excessive brake dust on your wheel, you may have a stuck caliper. If this is the case, have your Ford F-150 inspected immediately.
How often should I replace my Ford F-150 brake pads and rotors?
On average, front brake pads on a Ford F-150 last between 30,000 and 70,000 miles, and rotors can last slightly longer depending on your driving habits. If you tow heavy loads or drive through stop-and-go traffic on a regular basis, your brake pads and rotors will wear down faster. Our Professional Parts People recommend inspecting your brake pads during every routine oil change or tire rotation.
Do I need to replace my rotors when I install new brake pads?
Not necessarily, but you should never install brand-new brake pads onto worn, grooved, or damaged rotors. If your old rotors have plenty of thickness remaining and only show minor surface wear, they can often be reused.
Many O’Reilly Auto Parts locations provide Brake Drum and Rotor Resurfacing services. Bring your brake drums or rotors to your local O’Reilly Auto Parts, and we’ll resurface them for a small fee. If they’re too thin, or if they’re heavily cracked and warped, our Professional Parts People will be happy to help you find the best replacement brake parts for your vehicle.
Why do new brakes squeak or make a scraping noise?
New brakes can squeak or make a scraping noise if you skip the bed-in process, which prevents the brake pads from seating smoothly against the rotors. It can also occur if you forget to apply grease to metal contact points like the back of the pads, or if a layer of surface rust forms on the metal overnight.
| Item | Recommended Product | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Brake Pads |
BrakeBest Select Pro Front Semi-Metallic Brake Pads | Installed into the caliper bracket to press against the rotor faces, creating the friction needed to stop the truck |
| Brake Rotors |
BrakeBest Select Pro Front Brake Rotors | Mounts to the wheel hub to provide the smooth, durable metal friction surface needed for the brake pads to clamp onto |
| Brake Cleaner |
O'Reilly 70 Percent VOC Brake Parts Cleaner | Cleans dust, oil, and grease from the caliper brackets, pistons, and rotor surfaces |
| Brake Grease |
CRC Industries Caliper Grease | Lubricates caliper slide pins, bracket slots, and pad backing plates to prevent brake noise and ensure smooth movement |
| Brake Fluid |
O'Reilly DOT 3 Brake Fluid | Used to top off the master cylinder reservoir to the maximum fill line after compressing the caliper pistons |
| Ratchet & Socket Set |
Ratchet and 13mm, 18mm, & 21mm Sockets | Used to loosen and remove the wheel lug nuts, caliper mounting bolts, and caliper bracket bolts |
| Breaker Bar |
Power Torque Breaker Bar | Paired with a 21mm socket to loosen and remove wheel lug nuts and caliper bracket bolts |
| Caliper Compressor Tool |
Lisle Brake Pad Spreader | Used to compress the caliper pistons until they sit flush with the metal housing |
| Bleeder Tool |
Performance Tool Brake Bleeder Kit | Connects to the bleeder valve to capture escaping brake fluid when resetting the caliper pistons |
| Torque Wrench |
Power Torque Wrench | Used to tighten the 13mm caliper bolts to 55 ft-lbs, the 18mm bracket bolts to 148 ft-lbs, and the 21mm lug nuts to 150 ft-lbs |
| Caliper Hanger |
Brake Caliper Hanger Set | Suspends the brake calipers from the F-150 frame to prevent damaging brake hoses and other parts |
| Flathead Screwdriver |
Power Torque Flathead Screwdriver | Used to gently remove the front wheel hubcaps and old brake pads from the bracket channels |
| Wire Brush |
Steel Wire Brush | Used to remove rust from the wheel hub and studs before applying brake grease |
| Lifting Equipment |
Jack, Jack Stands, & Wheel Chocks | Secures the rear wheels, raises the front end, and supports the weight of the truck while wheels are removed |
| Cleaning Cloth |
Shop Towel or Rag | Used to remove excess grease from hardware components |
| Safety Gear |
Nitrile Gloves & Eye Protection | Protects your skin from grease and cleaner and keeps brake dust out of your eyes |
