2011-2015 Chevy Cruze Front Brakes Repair | O'Reilly Auto Parts

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The brake pads and rotors on your 2011-2015 Chevy Cruze are essential to your braking system. When you step on your brake pedal, the brake pads create friction with the rotors to slow the spinning wheels and bring you to a stop. When pads and rotors start to wear down, you may hear squealing or grinding when you hit your brakes, indicating that those friction surfaces have worn thin or worn off completely. Replacing the pads and rotors on your Cruze at the same time is recommended, since pads and rotors typically wear down at a similar rate.

Failing brake pads and rotors can put you and other drivers in danger by affecting your Cruze’s ability to stop, but fortunately, this is a repair you can do yourself. The following procedure applies to most 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 and 2015 Chevy Cruze models, but be sure to know the specifics for your Cruze before getting started. If you’re not completely comfortable doing this repair yourself, we’d be happy to recommend a professional technician in your area.

Once the front end is lifted and supported, remove the front wheels.

Step 1: Prepare Your Cruze

Park on a level surface. Chock the rear wheels and remove the wheel covers, if equipped. Use a lug wrench or breaker bar and 19mm socket to loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels. Use a jack and jack stands to lift and support the front end of the vehicle. Remove the lug nuts and front wheels.

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Use a 10mm socket and ratchet or breaker bar to loosen and remove the caliper bolts.

Step 2: Remove the Caliper Bolts

Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to loosen and remove the two caliper bolts. If needed, turning the steering wheel can provide better access.

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Remove the caliper from the rotor.

Step 3: Remove the Caliper

Slide the caliper off the rotor. Use a large flathead screwdriver to compress the piston slightly if you have trouble getting the caliper off. Hang the caliper somewhere out of the way, making sure there’s no strain on the brake line.

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Remove the old brake pads from the caliper bracket.

Step 4: Remove the Old Brake Pads

Remove the old brake pads from the caliper bracket.

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Use an 18mm socket to remove the caliper bracket.

Step 5: Remove the Caliper Bracket

Use an 18mm socket to loosen and remove the caliper bracket bolts, then remove the caliper bracket.

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Use a T-30 bit to remove the screw securing the rotor, then remove the rotor.

Step 6: Remove the Rotor

Use a T-30 bit to remove the screw securing the rotor, then remove the rotor. You can tap the rotor with a hammer if needed to remove it, but only use a hammer if you’re replacing the rotor. Use a wire brush to remove any rust from the studs or the face of the hub. Apply some silicone grease to the face of the hub to keep the new rotor from seizing to the hub.

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Use brake cleaner on a shop towel or rag to clean the friction surface of your new rotor.

Step 7: Clean Your New Rotor

Use brake cleaner and a shop towel or rag to remove oil from the friction surfaces of your new rotor.

Do It Right: Any time you use brake cleaner, remember that it will strip paint, so be very careful where you spray it.

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Install the new rotor, making sure to line up the hole for the T-30 screw.

Step 8: Install the Rotor

Install the new rotor, making sure you line up the opening for the T-30 screw, then reinstall the screw.

Do It Right: If you’re reusing your old rotors, it’s a good idea to have them resurfaced. Most O’Reilly Auto Parts locations offer brake rotor and drum resurfacing for a fee, and will measure your rotor thickness before resurfacing to ensure they can be safely reused. If the rotor can’t be resurfaced, our parts professionals can also help you find the best replacement rotors to get the job done right.

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Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the old hardware from the caliper bracket.

Step 9: Remove Old Hardware from the Bracket

Now remove the old hardware from your caliper bracket. Use a flathead screwdriver if needed. Give the bracket a visual inspection. If the bracket is extremely rusty where the pads or hardware will sit, it needs to be replaced. Spray the bracket down with brake cleaner, but don’t use a wire brush to clean it. This can lead to further corrosion.

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Wipe the slide pins clean and apply fresh silicone grease.

Step 10: Inspect and Clean the Slide Pins

Remove the slide pins and visually inspect them. If they’re corroded or pitted, they also need to be replaced. Wipe down the slide pins using brake cleaner and a shop towel or rag to remove old grease, and apply some fresh silicone grease. Reinstall the slide pins and make sure they glide smoothly.

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After applying silicone grease to the bracket, install the new brake hardware.

Step 11: Install New Brake Hardware

Now apply silicone grease to the notches on the bracket where your new brake hardware will sit, and install the new hardware.

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Tighten the caliper bracket bolts to 74 foot-pounds on a first pass, then another 60 to 75 degrees.

Step 12: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

Move the caliper bracket back into place and thread the bolts, then use your 18mm socket and ratchet to tighten them. Once they’re snug, use your torque wrench to tighten those bolts to 74 foot-pounds on a first pass, then turn the bolts another 60 to 75 degrees.

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Install the new pads in the caliper bracket.

Step 13: Install the New Brake Pads

Apply silicone grease to the notches on the hardware where the pads will sit, and to the back of your new brake pads. Install your new brake pads in the caliper bracket, putting the pad with the wear indicator on the inside.

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Clean the exposed portion of your caliper piston with brake cleaner on a towel or rag.

Step 14: Clean the Caliper Piston

Now, clean the exposed portion of your caliper piston with brake cleaner on a towel or rag.

Do It Right: If the rubber boot is cracked or if there’s brake fluid leaking, the caliper needs to be replaced.

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Use a compressor tool to compress the caliper piston, using an old brake pad to protect the piston.

Step 15: Compress the Caliper Piston

Attach your bleeder tool and open the bleeder valve with a wrench by turning it counter-clockwise. Using an old brake pad to protect the piston, compress the brake caliper with a caliper compressor tool. When you’re done, the piston should be flush with the housing. Tighten the bleeder valve, then detach the bleeder tool.

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Reinstall the caliper, then tighten the bolts to 21 foot-pounds.

Step 16: Install the Caliper

Slide your caliper into place over the brake pads. Once the caliper is in place, thread the bolts, then tighten them using your 10mm socket and ratchet. Torque those bolts to 21 foot-pounds.

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Reinstall the wheel.

Step 17: Reinstall the Wheel

Reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts until the wheel is secure against the rotor.

Do It Right: It’s always a good idea to change brake pads and rotors in pairs, so repeat these steps on the other side.

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Lower the front end.

Step 18: Lower the Front End

Lower the front end and remove the wheel chocks. Use your 19mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to 100 foot-pounds.

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Pump your brake pedal until you feel pressure return.

Pump Your Brake Pedal

Once the job is complete, BEFORE you drive anywhere, be sure to pump your brake pedal several times until you feel the pressure return.

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Check your brake fluid and top it off if necessary.

Check Your Brake Fluid

Some brake fluid was pushed out when you compressed your caliper pistons, so check your master cylinder and add fluid as needed.

Bleed Your Brakes If Needed

If your brake pedal feels spongy, it’s likely that you have air in one or both of your front brake lines, and you’ll need to bleed your brakes.

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Go for a drive, slowing thirty times from thirty miles an hour, letting brakes cool for thirty seconds between each stop.

Go For a Drive

To help break in the new components, it’s a good idea to test drive your vehicle, slowing it thirty times from thirty miles per hour with moderate brake pressure, allowing the brakes to cool for about thirty seconds in between each slowdown. Try to avoid aggressive stops during this break-in process.

Your brakes will probably smell after you’ve done this, and that’s okay. If the odor persists past five hundred miles or so, or if you have excessive dust on a wheel, you may have a stuck caliper.

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The automotive repair work depicted in this series is performed under the direction of the manufacturer of the product featured. Prior to undertaking any of the demonstrated repairs on your vehicle, we suggest you consult with a certified mechanic or another professional who can adequately advise you of the proper repair or remedy required. O’Reilly Automotive Stores, Inc. and its affiliates (“O’Reilly”) disclaims any responsibility for injury or damage resulting from a viewer’s attempt to recreate the repairs shown in this series.