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How to Change the Front Strut Assemblies on a 2011-2015 Chevy Cruze

The front struts on your Chevy Cruze help absorb energy from your suspension to limit any jarring motion when you drive. Factors like extreme temperatures and weather, combined with age-related deterioration, can eventually lead to worn-out strut assemblies. The function of your struts is often affected so slowly that it’s difficult to perceive, so it’s recommended that you inspect your Cruze’s struts every 50,000 miles or so. Replacing worn or failing strut assemblies on your 2011 to 2015 Chevy Cruze can affect handling, braking, alignment, tire wear, and overall ride comfort.

Tools & Materials List

Step-by-Step Instructions

Additional Resources

Tools & Materials

Step-By-Step Instructions to Change the Front Strut Assemblies on a 2011-2015 Chevy Cruze

This procedure will apply to most 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 and 2015 Chevy Cruze models, but be sure to know the specifics for your Cruze before getting started. If you’re not completely comfortable changing the front strut assemblies on your Cruze yourself, we’d be happy to recommend a professional technician in your area. Strut assemblies should always be replaced in pairs, since they both wear at the same rate.

Use a jack and jack stands to lift and support the front end of the car.

Step 1: Prepare Your Cruze

Park on a level surface and open the hood. If your front wheels have wheel covers, remove them, then loosen the lug nuts with a lug wrench or 19mm socket and breaker bar. Chock the rear wheels, then use a jack and jack stands to lift and support the front end. Remove the wheels.

Spray down the strut assembly lower mounting nuts and bolts with rust penetrant.

Step 2: Apply Penetrating Oil

Spray down the fasteners securing the strut assembly to the steering knuckle and sway bar link with rust penetrant.

Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.

Step 3: Support the Lower Control Arm

Use a jack to support the lower control arm on the side where you’ll be working first.

Use a 24mm wrench and T50 bit to remove the mounting plate at the top of the strut.

Step 4: Remove the Mounting Plate

In the engine bay, find the top of the strut tower and remove the plastic cap from the nut. Use a 24mm wrench and T50 bit to remove the nut from the mounting plate and remove the mounting plate.

Remove the brake hose from its bracket.

Step 5: Remove the Brake Hose from its Bracket

Back in the wheel well, detach the brake hose from its bracket toward the bottom of the strut assembly.

Detach the sway bar link from the strut.

Step 6: Detach the Sway Bar Link

Use an 18mm wrench and T35 bit to loosen the nut and detach the sway bar link from the strut.

Use an 18mm wrench and socket to remove the strut mounting nuts.

Step 7: Remove the Strut Mounting Nuts

Now use an 18mm wrench and an 18mm socket and ratchet or breaker bar to loosen and remove the nuts from the bottom two bolts securing the strut assembly.

Do It Right: You may need to adjust your jack to allow the bolts to loosen and be removed.

Use a hammer to tap the mounting bolts out if needed.

Step 8: Remove the Strut Mounting Bolts

Once those nuts are removed, you should be able to take out the bolts, using a hammer to carefully tap them through if needed.

Carefully remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.

Step 9: Remove the Strut Assembly

With the fasteners removed, you can use a pry bar at the bottom of the strut assembly if needed to dislodge it, then carefully remove the assembly from the wheel well.

Be sure you have the right replacement by comparing the new strut assembly with the old one.

Step 10: Compare Your Old Strut with Your New Strut

Compare the old strut assembly with your new one to make sure you have the right replacement part.

Do It Right: The nuts and bolts securing the strut to the knuckle and the nut securing the sway bar link to the strut need to be replaced. Failure to do this can lead to the potential of loosening over time, premature wear, and strange noises from the suspension.

Thread the top mounting bolt on to hold the new strut in place.

Step 11: Install Your New Strut Assembly

Lift your new strut assembly into the wheel well and reinstall the mounting plate you removed earlier from the top of the strut tower. Thread the top mounting nut into place by hand to keep the strut assembly secure while you reinstall the fasteners below.

Reinstall the sway bar link stud.

Step 12: Reinstall the Sway Bar Link

Align the stud on the sway bar link with its opening on the strut, and reinstall it. This may not be possible once the strut is in place. You can wait to reinstall the sway bar nut if you choose.

Tap the mounting bolts gently into place with a hammer if needed.

Step 13: Install the Strut Mounting Bolts

Align the knuckle with the base of the strut, and install the two bolts. Tap them in gently with a hammer if needed.

Secure the strut mounting nuts and bolts with an 18mm wrench and socket.

Step 14: Secure the Strut Mounting Nuts & Bolts

Install the nuts, then use your 18mm wrench, ratchet and socket to tighten the fasteners. Use a wrench and a torque wrench to tighten those fasteners to 66 foot-pounds on a first pass. Once they’re torqued, tighten the nuts another 60 to 70 degrees.

Reinstall the brake hose in its bracket.

Step 15: Reinstall the Brake Hose

Reinstall the brake hose in its bracket.

Secure the sway bar link nut on the stud with an 18mm socket.

Step 16: Reinstall the Sway Bar Link Nut

Thread your new nut onto the sway bar stud. Secure the stud with your 18mm wrench and tighten the nut until it’s snug. Use your torque wrench to tighten the nut to 48 foot-pounds.

Torque the top mounting nut to 48 foot-pounds.

Step 17: Secure the Top Strut Mounting Nut

Back in the engine bay, tighten the top strut mounting nut to 48 foot-pounds, and reinstall the cap.

Remove the jack from under the control arm.

Step 18: Remove Control Arm Support

Remove the jack from under the lower control arm.

Reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts.

Step 19: Reinstall the Wheel

Reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts until the wheel is secure.

Do It Right: Strut assemblies should always be changed in pairs, so repeat these steps on the other side.

Lower the front end.

Step 20: Lower the Front End

Lower the front end and remove the wheel chocks.

Reinstall wheel covers, if equipped.

Step 21: Secure Your Wheels

Use your torque wrench and 19mm socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to 100 foot-pounds. If you removed wheel covers, you can reinstall them now.

Schedule an Alignment

Once you’ve changed your front strut assemblies, it’s likely that you’ll need an alignment in order to drive comfortably and prevent abnormal tire wear. Our parts professionals can recommend a trusted local shop that specializes in alignments.

Additional Resources

The automotive repair work depicted in this series is performed under the direction of the manufacturer of the product featured. Prior to undertaking any of the demonstrated repairs on your vehicle, we suggest you consult with a certified mechanic or another professional who can adequately advise you of the proper repair or remedy required. O’Reilly Automotive Stores, Inc. and its affiliates (“O’Reilly”) disclaims any responsibility for injury or damage resulting from a viewer’s attempt to recreate the repairs shown in this series.